Flange Bolt Torque Guidelines
These guidelines are intended for bolting of PVC flange adapters.
- Tighten bolts by hand until they are snug.
- Establish a uniform pressure over the flange face by tightening the bolds in 5ft/lbs increments to the torque valves listed in the table below using a 180-degree opposing.
- Care must be taken to avoid “bending” the flange when joining to a flange with a “raised face flange” such as Specified Fittings’ flanges equipped with convoluted rings, or in joining to a wafer style flange.
- Do not use bolts to bring together improperly mated flanges.
- Unnecessary over-torquing will damage the flange.
|Flange Size||Recommended Torque (Ft. Lbs.)|
|1/2 - 1 1/12||10 - 15|
|2 - 4||20 - 30|
|6 -8||33 - 50|
|10||53 - 75|
|12||80 - 110|
|14 - 24||110|
Gasket Base Saddle Fittings
Saddles can be equipped with or without a neoprene gasket on the base. For saddles that are equipped with a base gasket, the saddle skirt, stainless steel straps provided can be used to hold it in place once tight.
After stainless steel straps have been installed, ratchet straps can be removed.
Solvent-Weld Saddle Fittings
The below is the recommended procedure for gluing saddle tees for pressure applications.
Saddles to be installed without a base gasket will require solvent cementing the base to the line. Because a saddle does not compression fit like a solvent weld bell, it simply sits on top of the pipe, making it more difficult to glue.
First, set the saddle on the pipe where it will be placed, and make a reference mark. Take the saddle off, and use sandpaper to rough up the pipe, removing the waxy exterior preparing it for a better glue joint.
Then rough up the underside of the saddle base. Specified Fittings recommends using IPS brand P-70 primer, and 719 glue for PVC gluing. The proper primer and glue will depend on the specifics of the end use.
To begin, apply a generous amount of primer to the base of the saddle; work the primer in with the brush until the plastic gets soft. To check the softness of the pipe, you should be able to scratch the plastic with a fingernail.
Quickly follow these same steps for the pipe. Working quickly, apply a generous amount of glue to the saddle and pipe and spread it evenly. Do not allow primer to dry before applying glue. Once primer and glue has been applied, the saddle will need to be set in place.
Specified Fittings suggests that ratchet straps be used to pull the saddle tight, and the provided stainless steel straps provided be used to hold it in place once tight. After stainless steel straps have been installed, ratchet straps can be removed. Stainless steel straps can be left on indefinitely. If for some cosmetic reason they should need to be removed, allow proper drying time to elapse for the glue to set before removing straps.
Proper gluing time will be enumerated on the product label. Be sure to consider gluing temperature in figuring dry time. When properly glued, saddles can be used in pressure applications, working adequately up to the maximum pressure rating of the mating pipe.
The below is intended to offer suggested practices for installation of gasketed PVC fittings fabricated by Specified Fittings.
When an adaptation is needed, solid walled PVC pipe is easily cut with a sharp bladed saw. It is vital that this cut be made straight and square. The cut end must be beveled so it will go through a gasketed or solvent-weld socket. Note that the “steeper” and “taller” the bevel, the easier insertion will be. Specified Fittings recommends beveling pipe ends at least 22 degrees. With each cut, insertion marks should be redrawn. In drawing reference marks, first measure—on the inside of the bell—from the edge of the entry lip to the beginning of the taper at the bottom of the bell. Draw the insertion line ½” to 1-1/2” shorter (including the bevel) than the bell depending on the size.
Clean dirt and foreign material from the gasketed socket and the spigot end. The gasket seals the joint against leaks, into or out of the pipeline. DO NOT REMOVE THE GASKET FROM THE RACE FOR CLEANING. Specified Fittings uses locked in rieber gaskets. Gasket lubricant for pipe assembly is recommended at the following rates: An insertion line is required to prevent against over insertion. However, due to bell depth variances amongst pipe manufacturers, factory drawn insertion lines cannot be relied upon when inserting into Specified Fittings’ fittings. Insertion lines should be drawn with specific consideration of Specified Fittings’ gasket bells. To determine placement of insertion line, use a tape measure to determine the depth of the gasket bell
from the bell’s entrance. Apply one insertion line at a distance of ½” less than the bell depth and another at a distance of 1” less than the bell depth. Uniformly apply pipe lubricant to the spigot end of the pipe or fitting up to the insert reference mark and to the gasket surface that makes contact with the spigot end of the pipe.
Assembly of the joint is made by sliding the lubricated spigot end into the lubricated gasket bell end. Align the spigot to the socket to be assembled, so that it is near contact with the gasket. Depending on the pipe size, between 500 and 1000 pounds of force may be required for assembly.
Keep the pipe length and fitting bell in proper alignment. Be careful not to let the
lubricated section touch the dirt or backfill as foreign material could adhere to the surface and compromise joint integrity. So that previously completed joints in the line will not be “stacked,” “over-belled,” or inserted past the reference mark, brace the bell while the spigot end is pushed through the gasket. Push the spigot end until the minimum, reference mark on the spigot end is flush with the end of the bell and the maximum insertion reference mark is clearly visible outside the gasket lip of the socket. Joints may be assembled using mechanical equipment provided that the pipe is protected, properly lubed, and aligned. Use a wood block or sheet of plywood to protect the end of the pipe. A come-along may be preferred, but a swing-stab is not recommended. Assembly will require greater effort in cold weather.
Curvilinear Alignment (without bending the pipe):
During construction, it may become necessary to make very slight changes in direction. When this situation is encountered, the clearance between the boarinside diameter of the socket and the outside diameter of the spigot may be utilized to accomplish curvilinear alignment without bending of the pipe. Neither the joint nor the pipe should be axially deflected in any manner to cause stress at the joint. Gasket bells on deflection fittings provided by Specified Fittings will accommodate a 1-1/2 deg change in direction per joint.
The below serves as instructions for installing PVC fittings fabricated by Specified Fittings.
When needed, solid walled PVC pipe is easily cut with a sharp bladed saw. It is vital that this cut be made straight and square. The cut end must be beveled. With each cut, insertion marks should be redrawn. In drawing reference marks, first measure—on the inside of the bell—from the edge of the entry lip to the beginning of the taper at the bottom of the bell. Draw the insertion line ½” shorter (including the bevel) than the bell depending on the size.
Clean both the pipe and female socket with a rag. Both primer and PVC cement are required for a good joint; the proper primer and glue will depend on end users’ situation. Using a properly sized applicator swab generously apply primer to both the pipe and to the interior of the female socket. Working quickly, apply copious amounts of glue to the pipe and inside of the fittings’ socket. The application of glue over the top of still-wet primer will inhibit its evaporation. Immediately assemble the fitting and pipe. Be sure that when you bottom out (insert up to drawn line) the pipe in the socket, you twist the pipe a ¼ turn. Hold in place for between 30 seconds and 1 minute to avoid push-out caused by the tapered solvent-weld socket. Wipe away the excess glue, especially the bead, without disturbing the joint.
Before moving the line glued with fittings, allow the cement to set. Set times will depend on the products used. After the joint has set, move into place. You can begin to backfill at this point, but the joints must remain exposed. This is for inspection and to allow complete curing. Cure period will depend on the type of cement, the size of the pipe, the air temperature and humidity, and other factors. Consult cement manufacturer for recommended cure times. Set and cure times will be longer with large sized pipe, slow drying cements, chemical applications and in damp or humid conditions.
Tips for solvent-welding:
- Specified Fittings suggests using IPS brand’s P-70 primer and PVC719 for gluing PVC.
- Pipe and fitting should soften with primer application. Test for appropriate pipe softness by scratching with fingernail.
- Keep applicator in glue between applications and keep can closed when not in use.
- Always follow safety and personal protective equipment suggestions provided by the primer and cement manufacturers.
- Many gluers prefer to keep their glue and primer inside a building or vehicle to keep it within the manufacturers suggested temperature range.